Lingua Vina and a Bordeaux Bargain from the 90’s.

Marimar Estate

2007 La Masîa Chardonnay

Russian River Valley

Was $30, now $22

Can you speak five languages fluently? If so, you will have to learn another one in order to match Marimar Torres, who knows six. She also holds business degrees from Stanford and the University of Barcelona, but Ms. Torres is willing to bet that you will be much more impressed by the wines she produces at Marimar Estate in the Russian River Valley.

Today we are sampling the 2007 Masîa Chardonnay. This offering from Torres’ Sonoma-based Don Miguel Vineyard has a unique Chard vocabulary indeed. Floral aromas of honeysuckle emerge on the nose. In the mouth we find hints of lemon zest and vanilla bean from the French oak, which enhances the complexity of the fruit and adds a nice little toasty sensation as well.  But it’s that lovely little shimmer of acidity that gives this Chardonnay a cute foreign accent – and a place on our summertime wine table. Put it on yours this evening and after a few glasses you just might find yourself speaking in tongues.

Chateau Simard

1999 Bordeaux Blend

Saint-Émilion

$30

One of the biggest winemaking trends to develop over the past few decades has been the general movement toward producing and selling wines faster. Pressure from competing beverage industries has forced modern wine makers to accelerate the quality development of their product – and to get it to market quickly. As a result, most of the affordable bottles you find on store shelves today are from recent vintages, and hardly any of them will benefit from aging.

So it’s refreshing to find a good bottle with some age on it that you won’t have to shell out a whole paycheck for. Today we are tasting just that very bottle: The 1999 Chateau Simard, a lovely Bordeaux blend of Merlot and Cab Franc perhaps best described as approachable elegance. After opening the bottle and allowing it to breath for a few hours, we discover a brick-red eye, smoky tobacco nose, and an elegantly earthy, dark fruit mouth. 

Currently owned by Claude Maziére, Chateau Simard is an ancient estate in Saint-Émilion dating to the 1600’s. Monsier Maziére simply refuses to release his bottles before they are at least a decade old. Fortunately for us, he doesn’t charge a lot for them when he finally does.

Showdown or Common Ground? Comparing New World and Old World Chardonnay

Burgundy is still the benchmark for Chardonnay

California sunshine from Carneros

JOSEPH DROUHIN 2008 Meursault $50

RAMEY 2008 Carneros Chardonnay $43

Old World versus New World: it’s a dichotomy that appears constantly in the world of wine, where fevered opinions about traditions and philosophies so frequently pepper conversation. Though there is no denying the divergence of approach in the two schools of winemaking, it’s a clash that is more aided by outlining respective differences and strengths than in crowning a champion. Both of these excellent Chardonnays show exciting promise to highlight these differences.

Drouhin vineyards near Beaune, France

Joseph Drouhin’s Meursault comes from a region in Burgundy that tends to favor a more robust, forward style, in terms of oak and in terms of overall punch; all of these adjectives frequently accompany New World wines, so it’s a perfect choice to place up against an archetype of California Chardonnay, the 2008 Ramey from Carneros. Ramey claims to make their wines by melding Old World tradition with New World technology. So, starting with a ton of common ground, how different could these wines really be?

The Drouhin Meursault’s initial offering is it’s gorgeous nose. Terrifically soft oak and a little bit of cream from the malolactic fermentation make for a sensuous aromatic experience. It’s just so well put together. The palate is full of butter, lemon, and soft brown caramel that finishes with the acidity just lingering, a feature that is not always so prominent in this style of Chardonnay, often being more the purview of racy Chablis. However, the finish is quite long, and as the acidity dissipates, what emerges is something so creamy and round that it is the perfect reminder of how one can be seduced by the fortuitous combination of oak and Chardonnay. Though Drouhin doesn’t best represent the nobly obscure, estate-made wines that are the hallmark of Burgundy and the idea of terroir, their wines are nevertheless consistently well-made, and crafted to an undeniable level of refinement and grace. The mouthfeel alone is testament to the high level of quality in this wine, as there is a thick, glycerine-laced body to it that adds a wonderfully quieting, satiating element.

David Ramey

Ramey’s Carneros Chardonnay greets one with a leaping salutation of American oak in all its toasty, golden-brown glory, with even a hint of mustard in the background. The palate of this wine is much starker than it’s French foil, much more delineated. The individual components are easily flushed out, in contrast to the slick synergy of the Meursault. The finish is also much bigger, with a steely, metallic acidity and a touch more heat, as well. A more forceful wine, in general, it is tougher and has more pronounced edges, making it a more versatile companion to accompany intense, flavorful foods.

So while the Drouhin presents a warm, mysteriously seductive package, the Ramey is brash, aggressive, choosing to highlight power along with its offerings of toast and green apple. However, both wines possess a certain smoothness and silky luxuriousness, an appetizing use of oak, and a fantastic level of acidity that far exceeds what is often found in everyday, oaky Chardonnay.

What remains most pronounced is the difference in style, unsurprising and familiar to the New World versus Old World debate. The Ramey struts forward, announcing its raw youth with a certain flash and vigor. Drouhin’s Meursault is pretty, glowing, and subtle in its relaxing, smart presentation. For different wine drinkers, for different occasions, each has its place–no less because both wines are quick reminders of the appeal of well-made Chardonnays and the joy of perfectly placed oak. In some ways, it is also a reminder of the higher price attached to such craftsmanship.

Robert Drouhin with his daughter, Head Winemaker Veronique Drouhin

Unfortunately, whether New World or Old World, the first flushes of love of many have experienced with oaked Chardonnays are hard to relive below a certain threshold, with too many clunky, woody, wines occupying the under-$30 market that promise, but fall short of delivering, the goods that Ramey and Drouhin provide in spades. No doubt, the work and skill that must go into wines of this level should be met with proper compensation and respect, though worthy artisans like the teams at Drouhin and Ramey make it a lot easier to shell out, since the wines possess a serious pull that drive one to part with hard earned scratch and trade it for a glass full of serious superlatives.

The Connoisseur’s Pinot Grigio

Located 25km from Verona in Northern Italy are Lenotti's holdings, on the banks of Lake Garda.

LENOTTI 

2009 Pinot Grigio, Venezie

$13

So the predominance of some major brands have made you a bit wary of watered-down innocuous Pinot Grigio? Fair enough. However, there are still some serious Pinot Grigios out there for those wanting a great all-purpose white that is crisp, dry, and yet rich. A well-made Pinot Grigio can be all of those things, refreshing while stopping short of the overbearing weight found in, say, an oaky California Chardonnay. The cooler climate of Venezie-Giulia gives Pinot Grigios their refreshing acidity, and this particular selection from Lenotti shows great aromatics that pop out of the glass: a touch of cream, and a hint of golden currant. This is certainly no generic mass-marketed Pinot Grigio. There is a nice, broad palate tempered with a backbone of acidity that brings the wine into focus. Even a subtle hint of green apple Jolly Rancher appears, providing a nice punch and reminding me of getting those candies as a reward in elementary school. Well, here’s a proper reward for the trials and tribulations of being an adult, and just in time for summer vacation. Salud!

Dusty and Dry: Rescuing Riesling’s Reputation

Dry Riesling has the power to save lives.

Carl Ehrhard

2008 Rüdesheimer Riesling Kabinett Dry

Rheingau, Germany

$17

So are you among those who have come to condemn German Rieslings to an ignominious chair in the corner, as a shamefully sweet beverage that pops up as an unwelcome reminder of clueless college days sipping sickly, sugary wine out of a blue bottle? Well, friends, I am here to happily preach the good news of dry German Rieslings, wines that are precision-made powerhouses and showcases for the superior heights of fine artisanal winemaking. Dry Rieslings may be the most versatile whites that exist when it comes to food pairings, and also some of the most rewarding wines for those seeking excitement, perfection, and passion in a glass. Though the labels of German wines can be intimidating, just look for any of the following to find a dry Riesling: the words trocken, meaning dry, or the actual English word dry, which is appearing more often on exports. Also look at the alcohol content: levels above 12% are a good sign that nearly all the sugars have been converted into alcohol, the very definition of dry.

Steep slopes and the mighty Rhine in the winemaking village of Rüdesheim

Coming from the Rheingau in western Germany, Carl Ehrhard’s 2008 Dry Riesling is a stunning example of the greatness this type of wine can exhibit. From the first encounter, there is no mistaking this wine for anything but dry. In fact, the nose is delightfully dusty, like a puff of chalkboard erasers having just been clapped. There is a muted quality to the aromatics, which is actually a bit different from most Rieslings, some of which can set off the senses at ten paces. Here, there’s a soft cloud obscuring intense sunlight, and intrigue behind the veil, as a touch of confectionary lemon glaze pokes through. On tasting this wine, the soft cloud vaporizes in an explosion of rugged minerality and bombastic, electric acidity. The chalky undertones are not subtle, they nearly rise up and overtake the wine, though the starkly bright citrus notes are ample match as together they forge a path on the palate much like a trusted guide through an Alpine pass. The finish just hangs, leaving a chewy texture more reminiscent of a huge, tannic red rather than the pale, almost colorless concoction appearing in the glass.

Not only do I believe this wine could convert the jaded back to Riesling’s remunerative properties, it would be the first wine I’d recommend for hardcore red drinkers to experience the power and awesomeness that can exist in a glass of white wine. Take it to the streets, start saving lives with Riesling today!

-jk

Tuscan, Through and Through

LA MAIA LINA

2008 Gertrude – $14

There ares some wines that show their origins so well, that the particular varietals used are but a means to express the nuances of the climate and soil rather than an end in itself. The 2008 Gertrude, an IGT wine (that simply means it’s typical of the region, in this case Tuscany), uses the non-indigenous varietals, in this case Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, not to create a wine that tastes like juicy Napa, but to enhance what is unmistakably Tuscan. The nose emits a scent of baked earth and stewed cherries often found in this area of Italy, along with a warm helping of fleshy, young fruit, dried herbs, and smoke. The palate has lots of tart cranberry, and doesn’t show any of the jamminess I expected from the higher percentages of Cab (30%) and Merlot (25%) that accompany the Sangiovese. Coming from clay-based soil and fermented in concrete vats, this wine has the acidity to make it a great companion for meals: not just those of the Tuscan persuasion, but almost any cuisine would be well served by some of this wine’s delicious finesse.

El Dorado in a Bottle

The dry, arid, Numanthia vineyard site in western Castilla y Leon.

NUMANTHIA

• 2008 Termes $30

• 2007 Numanthia $64

• 2007 Termanthia $214

Located downriver from Ribero del Duero, the Toro DO has existed only since 1987.

There is a trio of wines from a region of Spain called Toro that are spoken about with a reserved hush, a revered whisper. The wines of the fabled producer Numanthia are made from a special strain of Tempranillo, called Tinta de Toro, producing dramatic wines, creating mythic characters out of a high desert in Northern Spain. Ungrafted vines are spaced farther apart than anywhere in the world to combat the hostile climate, the only consolation for the vines being the cool, high altitude air spreading out over the vineyards at night. The three wines from Numanthia: Termes, Numanthia, and Termanthia, are known not only for their thrilling intensity, but for their approachability, their balance; the beautiful harmonic, tapestry that they exhibit.

At $30, the 2008 Termes is simply one of the best values out there in the wine world. Nowhere else can one find such a mix of rich fruit with careful, layered structure. Regarded across the board for its excellence by wine drinkers of widely divergent tastes and opinions, Termes has received 18 ratings from Robert Parker and Stephen Tanzer since 1999, and has yet to receive any score below 90 points. A rare feat at any price, this is truly remarkable for a $30 wine.

The 2007 Numanthia, coming in at $64, is one of those wines that is a sure bet, something that will take hard-earned money and turn it into an almost magical experience, a wine that sticks in your brain as a high-water mark even days, months, years after the bottle is empty. The tannins are surprisingly well-integrated at this young age, and the acidity in this wine is especially notable, giving the rich, deeply seductive fruit lift, etching out a superior sense of craft and near electricity amongst the velvety, cocoa tones of the Tinta de Toro.

Finally, one of the all-supreme Spanish wines, a rare hero from a region that only 15 years
ago was regarded as provincial and rustic, the 2007 Termanthia at $214 is not only the proud patron of the Numanthian group, but may be the flagship of the entire flotilla of Spanish wines. Only 36 bottles exist in the state of Ohio. Six of them are at Wine on High.  Some say that Robert Parker’s highest-rated wines are nearly undrinkable because of their raw power and must be tempered with careful bottle aging that can take decades. However, despite it’s 97 point score, the 2007 Termanthia is ready to change lives right now. Called the “Treasure of Toro,” the grapes are hand-picked from a single plot of vines that reaches back to the 1890s. The grapes are crushed by foot, the wine is aged in new French oak barrels; not just once, but twice, a costly technique that uses double-exposure to new oak in order to tease out a level of complexity rarely found. The wine is not filtered, the wine is not fined, retaining all the unique essence brought to the wine by timeless, hand-crafted methods.

Toro averages less than 16 inches of rain a year: far less than most would consider necessary for making wine.

Is the medieval town of Toro the lost City of Gold? These wines make a solid case for it, but, as their ghosts may still be searching the Amazon basin, you might not want to tell Orellana and Pizzarro that they should have just stayed in Spain.

Wishing he had some Numanthia Termanthia to pair with that tasty critter.

A Pair of Weekend Warriors

DOMAINE DE NIZAS

2009 Languedoc Rosé – $13

This blend of Grenache (40%), Syrah (40%), and Mourvedre (20%) is light pink, herbacious, and grassy, but watch out: it is a big, forceful wine. A little hot in the way the alcohol comes off the glass, this rosé is refreshing overall, with a soothing, subtle eucalyptus to take the edge off the bite this wine delivers. Rosé always is a cinch to pair with different foods, and this one is no exception. I’d give it a shot with shrimp, but this wine has enough power that it might hold it’s own with a steak. Also perfect for those who like a nice vodka cocktail before dinner, try this instead but be ready for some randy rosé.

VENTA MORALES

2009 Tempranillo La Mancha – $9

One thing is indisputable about the rise of modern winemaking techniques–cheap wine is no longer unpalatable. Thanks to technology and more scientific methods, it is almost difficult to find truly awful wines out there, and with a little work you can find truly delicious wines for barely a sawbuck. This Tempranillo from the plains of Central Spain emits a sticky scent of ripe fruit, the palate aided by a smidgen of oak and tannin to hold back the slightly syrupy essence that is present. This is a perfect barbecue/cookout wine, use it in marinades, use it to serve to thirsty guests, use it all summer on your patio, sneak it into baseball games if you have a law-breaking streak to your personality. The money you saved on the wine will help take the sting out of any fines.

Putting Rueda on your Radar

AGRICOLA CASTELLANA

Pampano Rueda 2009 – $11

A region that everyone should know, Rueda, kind of floats just under the radar.  This bottle will hopefully help to get the word out about the often overlooked Spanish region It’s so versatile, it’s so approachable, it’s often an instant smash. Though Viura, Verdejo, and Sauvignon Blanc are all acceptable to use, I prefer the wines made of Viura and Verdejo, and the 2009 Pampano is a wine made of 60% Viura and 40% Verdejo. Bright, crisp, and with plenty of acidity due to Rueda’s cooler climate in north central Spain, this wine is not shy. Though clean and punchy, there is also a heft to the wine: it’s a real tomcat, confident and friendly. Perfect for sautéed fish, roasted chicken, or spicy shrimp. One of those wines you should always have on hand, it will please the people, it will play well with a ton of foods, it will win you friends and influence your uncle.

Sangiovese Heads West

UVAGGIO

2009 Rosso Vecchio California Sangiovese – $13

Coming all the way from Tuscany to grow in a similar climate in Lodi, this Sangiovese will zap your nostrils with it’s spicy, bright power. There is some black cherry on the nose, too, as a tantalizing bonus. Definitely a forward Californian wine despite the Italian varietal being used, this is also on the manly, rugged, side of things. Dark leather comes out on a briney, spiced finish, reminiscent of good chorizo. Versatile, well-crafted wine that manages to carve out an identity somewhere between the juicy New World and earthy Old World, living up to the claims of the winemaker that they are savvy in using Italian varietals in the Mediterranean climate of their California holdings.  French oak is used here, which imparts the benefits of oak in a more subtle way. Lamb chops with a cherry glaze? Josh suggested that could be quite the match-up, and I would hardly disagree.

Crowd-Pleasing Cabernet

HALL

2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – $40

Wines are fickle, wines are unpredictable. People, too. Put them together, and it’s tough to tell what might go down. However, sometimes there are just obvious winners in the world of wine, bottles that everybody can agree upon, and thank goodness for that, and thank you to Kathryn Hall, whose 2007 Napa Cab is easily in this category. (She was also U.S. Ambassador to Austria, one of my favorite wine-making countries, so I have another reason to like her). Her feminine leadership at the winery comes through, as this is not brash, macho posturing in a glass, but rather a harmonic union of supple, smooth fruit with the intense focus and depth of passionate craftsmanship. The nose is engaging and dark, the palate refined but round; no tannic torpor to assault your tongue, just enough earth to provide a forest bed of passing evergreen. The careful construction of this wine is a great distillation of Napa purity into bottle form. A crowd-pleaser, but also a critic-pleaser.